Cacio e Pepe

Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil, using slightly less water than you normally would. This concentrates the starch, which is essential for creating the creamy sauce later. Add the spaghetti and cook over medium-high heat until al dente, following the package timing.

While the pasta cooks, toast the whole peppercorns in a dry skillet over medium-high heat for a minute or two until they become fragrant. Let them cool briefly, then crush them in a mortar and pestle or under the flat side of a heavy knife to a mostly coarse grind.

Finely grate the Pecorino Romano on a microplane or the smallest holes of a box grater. You want about 3 cups of fluffy, cloud-like cheese so it melts smoothly into the sauce.

When the pasta is done, drain it in a colander set over a bowl to catch the starchy cooking water. Return the hot pasta to the pot with the burner turned off. Immediately add about a third of a cup of the reserved pasta water. Working quickly, add the grated cheese and crushed pepper in three additions, stirring and tossing vigorously between each one. The heat from the pasta and the starchy water will melt the cheese into a smooth, glossy coating. Add a splash more pasta water if it looks too thick.

Divide the pasta among warm bowls. Top each serving with an extra sprinkle of grated Pecorino and a crack of fresh pepper. Serve right away before the sauce tightens.